Day 9 - Jedburgh to Hardknott Pass / Bolton le Sands


Saturday 11/05/2019
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The night was less cold than of late, but it wasn't exactly warm on our penultimate night in the tent. Slept quite well with the gentle sound of the river (and a few drinks) getting me to sleep. We had luck again with the weather and woke to sunshine and the sound of bird song. After quick showers we went across the road for a large fry-up breakfast before putting our gear back on for the push South across the border.
It was a pretty late start in the end so we decided not to go through the Kielder Forest and took a quicker road skirting it instead. We passed the border back into England in glorious sunshine which made the Northumberland scenery all the more impressive.
We did a bit of minor road zig-zagging and got to Hadrian's Wall at Homesteads and then onto Vilolanda. All very cool with lots of elements of the original wall still visible. Lots of walkers doing the entire length of the wall - I can see the attraction now. The weather was generally good but we went through a few showers - nothing worth getting the full wet weather gear out for though.
 
I was running low on fuel and managed an impressive 215 miles before we got to Alston where we tanked-up. We ended-up riding through what probably is and if not should be, a biking paradise road. It lead up a big hill with a burnt-out cafe at the top before snaking back down on the most perfect bends / tarmac that I have seen in a long time. Half way down we had our photo taken by some guy who has a website that you can then buy the photos from. Will need to check that out when I get home. In any case, a brilliant road that left the edges of my tyres melted.
Before long we we back in the beautiful Lake District. What a place - the sun was out for good, pefection. This time we rode around to the Western side and headed South that way. I've always wanted to ride the Hardknott Pass which is Britains steepest road at 30%. I knew that it was around here so I stopped and planned a route that would take us through both the Hardknott and Wynrose Passes near Eskdale.
The road started-off fine, lots of pretty villages, a narrow-guage rail station, etc. Eventually we got to the final warning sign and to be honest, the road was far more extreme than I could have ever expected. The steepness was insane, it was relentless. The switch-back roads were like the toughest in the Alps but with a terrible road surface, with blind bends and with cars trying to come the other way. Fully loaded and with Krysia on the back, it was hell. Everytime I hit a bump of touched the throttle the bike would start to wheelie. Just when we thought it was over we got to the next bit that was even worse. Had I stopped for a car, stalled or wobbled then we would have been off. Amazing achievement but I will never do it again unless solo on the bike. That said the Fazer was amazing and just chugged through despite me bogging it down far too slow for it's first gear. Feathering the clutch would have guaranteed a wheelie and looping it!
Anyway, we got down to civilisation where we stopped by a Tolkien-like river / bridge to talk through out experiences (even Dino riding solo said it was terrifying for him) and to regain our senses. We then quickly did the last stint our of the Lakes to Bolton le Sands (nr. Morcame) and our final campsite of the trip. We've set-up in a large field by the sea which is more than adequate for our needs.
We made the long walk back into town where we enjoyed some beers and probably the best curry that I've had in years. Brilliant in every way. We talked about the highs and the few lows - who would have thought that there was so muxh adventure to be had on our doorstep. Despite being 'only' Scotland, this will certainly count as a trip of a lifetime! Tomorrow motorways and back home!

Mileage: 1757
Country count: 2 (GB - England, Scotland)
Beers: 56 + 1 Whiskey
Fines: 0
Bribes: 0
Ass pain: 5/10
Mechanical issues: 0.5 (well Dino's sat-nav fell-off and I had to cable tie a water hose to stop it rubbing)
Accidents: 0 (could had been a couple of big ones on the Hardknott Pass)
Wetness: 3/10
Coldness: 3/10
Midges: 3/10

















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